Any watch in the Patrimony collection epitomises a dress timepiece, but the retrograde day-date models are an exceptional treat. Surprisingly, until now, there were only three references in the current collection, with a choice of white or pink gold cases with white or blue dials. This year, Vacheron Constantin expands the offer, adding the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date in a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial to the collection.
The combination of platinum and salmon is new to the contemporary Patrimony line but not entirely new to the brand since last year it can be found in various Vacheron collections in limited annual production, take the Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, for example. The new Retrograde Day-Date reference features a 42.5mm round slim case, 9.7mm thick, with a sunburst-finished dial that radiates nicely and plays well in the light to enhance the watch’s presentation. The minute track comprises delicate diamond-polished white gold spheres; the applied baton white gold hour indices are shorter on the top to make room for the retrograde date.
The emblem of the Maison, the Maltese cross, is right below the 12 o’clock index, above the logo. Made from pink gold, it mixes sandblasted and polished facets, adding to the feeling of exclusivity this platinum watch radiates. The white gold hours and minutes hands are slightly curved to follow the shape of the domed dial, and the retrograde day and date hands are blued steel and spear-shaped, with hollow ends. Given the case diameter, which some may consider too big for a “proper” dress watch, the dial is large enough to provide excellent legibility. It looks well balanced, with all the used colours and materials complementing this fine Vacheron timepiece.
The new Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date reference uses the in-house self-winding calibre 2460 R31R7/3, top-of-the-line Vacheron’s base Calibre 2460 SC fitted with a retrograde calendar module. This 276-component movement operates at 28,800vph, has a power reserve of close to 40 hours and sports a gold openworked rotor with a Maltese cross. This calibre is marked with the Poinçon de Genève stamp of quality; please enjoy the Haute Horlogerie finishing as the caseback is transparent. The bridges have hand-polished angles, with Côtes de Genève, and the mainplate is circular-grained.
The new Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is worn on a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with a calf inner shell, closed with a half Maltese cross-shaped platinum pin buckle. The watch will be available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques; the price is to be confirmed, but expect no less than EUR 55-60,000.
Please visit www.vacheron-constantin.com for more information.
This post first appeared on Monochrome Watches - An online magazine dedicated to fine watches.