When it comes to describing any De Bethune watch, one usually ends up using several superlative descriptive words. The level of detail, for instance, is only rivalled by few, if any at all. The innovative independent watchmaker is extremely capable of creating a blend of traditional watchmaking expertise, and forward-thinking technical advancements. It does so in a very distinct style, split into two “faces” if you will. The more classical, traditional side of the brand is the DB25 range, which now sees a new De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Green being introduced during Dubai Watch Week.
The new DB25 Perpetual Calendar in green is built upon existing architecture by De Bethune. They’ve done a DB25 QP before, with silver, anthracite or salmon pink dials and white or rose gold and platinum cases. This new version changes things up a little not only by colour but also by material as the case is now made in titanium. It measures 44mm in diameter and 11.1mm in height and comes with the hollowed integrated lugs seen on all DB25 models. Sapphire crystals on the front and back cover the dial and movement.
The dial for the new De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar is done in a very handsome tone of green, similar to the colour we’ve recently seen on the DB27 Titan Hawk. It has a hand-applied guilloché décor on the middle section of the dial, divided into 12 sections. On the outside edge of the dial is a second guilloché decoration, with a curved hour and minute track bridging the two. All the scales, including the relief roman numerals, are done in a silver-tone. Steel, polished curved hands indicate the hours and minutes only, as there’s no seconds indication.
The De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar discretely displays the day of the week and month through two apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock. Two subdials for the date and moon phase, with integrated leap year indication, are aligned vertically. The moon phase is decorated with stars in the typical De Bethune way. The 3D spherical moon used for the display is accurate to one lunar day every 122 years.
It comes with the brand’s in-house Calibre DB2324, which comprises no less than 425 components, including 47 jewels. The movement features De Bethune’s signature style titanium and white gold rotor, seen through the back. It also comes with several of the innovations De Bethune is known for, like the titanium and white gold balance wheel, De Bethune balance spring with flat terminal curve and a silicon escapement wheel. Running at a frequency of 28,800vph, it packs a healthy 120 hours of power reserve when the barrel’s fully wound. The time and date are adjusted through the crown, with the remainder of the QP indications adjusted through correctors in the caseband. The finishing is as you might expect from De Bethune; spectacular!
The De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Green is worn on an olive green textile strap or a cognac brown leather strap, both with a polished titanium pin buckle. It is limited to a production of 10 pieces per year and has a price tag of CHF 125,000 excluding taxes.
For more information, please visit DeBethune.ch
This post first appeared on Monochrome Watches - An online magazine dedicated to fine watches.