When you are one of the largest watch retailers in the world (and the largest in Europe), you can use this leverage to create your own limited edition watches. This is what Bucherer has been doing now for several years, with the Blue Editions – you probably guessed that all of these watches have a specific blue dial (see here for instance). Today, the watch retailer is presenting a special edition of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic, in red gold and, of course, with a blue dial.
This new 88-piece limited edition of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic for Bucherer is obviously no more than a visual update of an existing watch, with a new case material and a new dial colour to be precise – which doesn’t prevent us to be pleased by this overall good looking watch. The base used is identical to the watch we reviewed extensively here, a watch launched in 2013 and that has been slightly revamped in 2017 (basically with a cleaner dial). It is named “Classic” in opposition to the standard (non-manufacture) but iconic Portugieser Chronograph Automatic IW3714 – the one that is in the collection since 1998. This is the high-end Portugieser Chronograph, with an in-house movement and more elegant look.
In addition to the other existing blue watches, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic Bucherer Blue Editions now combine an 18k red gold case – something that already exits – with a blue dial – something that also exists in the collection. It is the combination of these two that makes this watch special to Bucherer, as the blue dial is usually reserved for the steel case – under the ref. IW390303. The case of this blue edition is the same size, meaning 42mm in diameter x 14.2mm in height.
Here, the main update concerns the addition of gold-coloured hands, applied indices and numerals to the dial, in order to be consistent with the case material. Overall, the contrast between the warm gold case and the cold blue dial is satisfying. One small detail: the date disc is matching the dial and isn’t painted in white. It is paired with a brown Santoni alligator strap.
Under the hood is the in-house automatic chronograph calibre 89361. This movement is the refined chronograph movement offered by IWC and it features all the modern delicacies, meaning: a column-wheel, a vertical clutch, a flyback function, an integrated architecture, a 4Hz frequency and a comfortable power reserve of 68 hours. It is visible through the case back and comes with a nice (yet machine-executed) decoration. The display is specific to IWC, with the hours and minutes of the chronograph displayed in one unique sub-dial at 12 o’clock (in a co-axial way).
The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic Bucherer Blue Editions will be available only from Bucherer stores, in an 88-piece limited run and priced at CHF 21,500 or EUR 21,900. More details on iwc.com and bucherer.com.
This post first appeared on Monochrome Watches - An online magazine dedicated to fine watches.