Panerai watches and their military roots need no introduction anymore. The brand, founded in Florence, Italy, supplied military forces only for more than half a century. This background is part of the brand’s DNA and most of the design elements have been created with military requirements in mind. Today, the brand pays tribute to its history as the sole supplier of wristwatches to the Royal Italian Navy, with a collection of four classic Radiomir watches dressed in matte military green. Meet the PAM00995, PAM00997, PAM00998 and PAM00999.
Common visual codes
Panerai, also known as “Officine Panerai”, has been available to the public only since 1993. Still, the brand has a long and rich history, however, only for military purposes, in particular with the Royal Italian Navy. The main step in Panerai’s history will occur in 1916 after Guido Panerai (grandson of the founder) took over the family business and created “Radiomir”, a self-luminous material that allowed to see the time in the dark and underwater. In 1936, on the eve of the Second World War, Panerai creates the first prototypes of the model now known as “Radiomir” for the frogman commandos of the First Submarine Group Command of the Royal Italian Navy.
In 1940, Panerai presents a new version of the Radiomir, with reinforced lugs and a cushion-shaped case made with edges that are more pronounced on the side – a shape that will later become the brand’s hallmark. Today’s four new watches are deeply inspired by this 1940 model, its typical shape and the military roots that created the legend behind Panerai.
While green, when it comes to military forces, usually refers to land rather than naval operations, it is the definitive expression of field-tested watches. Therefore, this new sub-collection presents on its 4 models some matte military green dials – in addition to the fact that green certainly is the colour of the year.
These four new green Panerai Radiomir watches are based on the 1940 model, not the inaugural watch with wired lugs. It thus features a more solid cushion-shaped case with integrated lugs – but not the trademarked crown protection device, which is the apanage of the Luminor models.
These new PAM00995, PAM00997, PAM00998 and PAM00999 are all evolution of classic models in the collection, just differing from the use of a dense, non-reflective green colour on their dials. All the watches are worn on Italian tanned natural leather straps (“Assolutamente” or “Ponte Vecchio”) and a spare fabric strap is also included in the satin-finished green cherry wood boxes. All 4 models are boutique-only editions, non-limited.
Panerai Radiomir 45mm PAM00995
The first model in this 2019 green-themed sub-collection is a classic time-only stainless steel watch, based on the 45mm Radiomir 1940 model. The PAM00995 has the typical 1940 case with fully polished steel surfaces and a 100m water resistance. It is complemented by a “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather strap in dark brown – additional canvas strap in beige included.
The dial is treated in matte military green with sandwich construction, with hands gold plated and beige luminous material. The display is quite simple, with hours-minutes in the centre and a small seconds at 9 o’clock. Powering the Panerai Radiomir 45mm PAM00995 is the automatic in-house P.4000 calibre, a relatively thin movement with micro-rotor (resulting in a 12mm thick watch) visible through the sapphire caseback, and providing 3 days of power reserve. The PAM00995 will be priced at EUR 9,900.
Quick facts: 45mm diameter x 12.2mm height – polished steel case, 100m WR – matte military green dial with hours, minutes, small seconds – in-house calibre P.4000, automatic with micro-rotor – 4Hz frequency and 3-day power reserve – calf leather strap, dark brown, steel pin buckle, additional beige canvas strap – PAM00995, boutique only – EUR 9,900
Panerai Radiomir GMT 45mm PAM00998
The second model in this military-green collection is also based on a known model, the Radiomir 1940 GMT. Still relying on the same 45mm polished steel case, this Radiomir GMT 45mm PAM00998 adds to the package a dual-time indication – via large central arrow hand – as well as a date window and a night-and-day indicator in lieu of the small seconds. This version is worn on an “Assolutamente” suede calf leather strap in light brown (beige canvas strap included too).
Without surprise, the dial is matte green with sandwich construction, revealing the beige Super-LumiNova underneath. The hands are gold-plated and the display is classic for a GMT Panerai model. The date is more relevant in this context of a traveller’s watch. Powering the PAM00998 is the automatic, in-house, micro-rotor equipped calibre P.4001, with 3-day power reserve and all settings by the crown. The PAM00998 will be priced at EUR 11,700.
Quick facts: 45mm diameter x 13.95mm height – polished steel case, 100m WR – matte military green dial with hours, minutes, AM/PM indication, GMT, date – in-house calibre P.4001, automatic with micro-rotor – 4Hz frequency and 3-day power reserve – calf leather strap, light brown, steel pin buckle, additional beige canvas strap – PAM00998, boutique only – EUR 11,700
Panerai Radiomir GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM00999
In addition to the previous GMT model, Panerai also includes a second traveller’s watch in this green-themed collection, this time with an additional function. Indeed, on this PAM00999 – based on a watch that is available in collection with a textured black dial (ref. PAM00628) – adds a power reserve indication between 4 and 5 o’clock. The case remains sized at 45mm and made of polished stainless steel. It is worn on a “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather strap in dark brown – additional canvas strap in beige included.
Other than the power reserve, the matte military-green dial of the PAM00999 features the same indications as the model above, with GMT central hand, date and AM/PM indication. Beige luminous material and gold-plated accents give the vintage touch. Inside the case is another evolution of the micro-rotor movement, the Calibre P.4002 – still with 3-day power reserve and all adjustments by the crown. The Panerai Radiomir GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM00999 will be priced at EUR 11,900.
Quick facts: 45mm diameter x 13.95mm height – polished steel case, 100m WR – matte military green dial with hours, minutes, AM/PM indication, GMT, date, power reserve – in-house calibre P.4002, automatic with micro-rotor – 4Hz frequency and 3-day power reserve – calf leather strap, dark brown, steel pin buckle, additional beige canvas strap – PAM00999, boutique only – EUR 11,900
Panerai Radiomir 48mm PAM00997
Last but not least, the fourth model in the military green collection is a bold take on the 1940 concept. Not only it features a matte black ceramic case for a robust and stealth look, but the case is here oversized, with a 48mm diameter. This PAM00997 is a simple time-only version and is worn on a black “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather strap with DLC-coated titanium buckle – beige canvas strap included too.
The dial sticks to the matte military green theme, however, the hands are here blackened to match with the case. The dial retains the classic sandwich construction with beige Super-LumiNova. The display consists of hours and minutes in the centre, with a small running second at 9 o’clock. This Black Ceramic Radiomir 48mm PAM00997 is also the only one in the green collection to feature a hand-wound movement, the well-known in-house calibre P.3000 with 3-day power reserve. The movement is visible through a smoked sapphire crystal. The PAM00997 will be priced at EUR 12,900.
Quick facts: 48mm diameter x 16.12mm height – sandblasted matte black ceramic case, 100m WR – matte military green dial with hours, minutes, small seconds – in-house calibre P.3000, hand-wound – 3Hz frequency and 3-day power reserve – calf leather strap, black, DLC-titanium pin buckle, additional beige canvas strap – PAM00997, boutique only – EUR 12,900
More details at www.panerai.com.
This post first appeared on Monochrome Watches - An online magazine dedicated to fine watches.