Chronoswiss is unanimously recognized as the regulator specialist. Born in 1983, the brand quickly made this historical display its hallmark, with most of its collections based on this display that refers to the old days of watchmaking. Since then, Chronoswiss has been working hard to give this display a modern look, yet remaining true to the origins of the brand. Just in time for summer, there’s a new, bold and colour edition coming, the Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear “Ocean”.
The regulator is a unique display that consists in separating the 3 main indications (hours, minutes and seconds) into sub-dials, in order to enhance the legibility of timekeeping. Originally, regulators were used in manufactures as master clocks, so employees who were tasked to regulate watches had a clearly readable clock to refer to. Those days are gone, for sure, yet the regulator has found its way to the wrist, with some brands using it to bring originality to their creations. So is the story of Chronoswiss, which had used the regulator since the mid-1980s as its signature model. We’re now in 2020 and while the brand is still offering multiple pieces with this display, it also needed to adapt to the style of the 21st century. This is the task of the Flying Regulator Open Gear, a modernly designed, architectural watch where the regulator display serves the 3-dimensional look of the watch.
The new Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear “Ocean” retains the typical case of the brand, with a 41mm diameter, an onion crown and a knurled bezel and caseback profile. The flanks are vertically brushed, contrasting with the polished surfaces of the bezel and the lugs. The case is a complex 16-piece construction and its design is unmistakable. The watch is worn on a crocodile strap, attached to the case by the means of a patented Autobloc system, with strap holders screwed down to the lugs.
While the case is classic, the dial and its architectural design are merging modernity and tradition, for a bold result. The striking base dial is hand-guilloche with a concentric wave pattern, adding a luxurious touch to the watch. Yet, it has been coated with a colour-changing green CVD – chemical vapour deposition. The colour, reminiscent of oceanic tones, ranges from green to dark turquoise.
The second concession to modernity comes from the architecture of the display itself. While the 3 indications are classically positioned for a regulator – hours at 12, central minutes, small seconds at 6 – all the elements have been raised and “exploded”, with a skeletonised train wheel bridges and funnelled hour and second displays. Visible screws and raised chapter rings bring depth and technicality.
The Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear “Ocean” is powered by the automatic Chronoswiss calibre C. 299. It is based on the ETA 2895 (the small second version of the precise and reliable ETA 2892) but substantially modified with an in-house regulator module. Fitted with 31 jewels, it beats at 28,800vph with a 42-hour power reserve. The stop-seconds mechanism allows you to set the precise time with ease. It is visible via the exhibition caseback with its green-coated skeletonized rotor.
Price and availability
Released as a series of 35 pieces, the Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear “Ocean” (Ref. CH-8753-GREBK) retails for CHF 8,800 or EUR 8,900. For more information and online orders, please visit the brand’s webshop here: chronoswiss.com.
This post first appeared on Monochrome Watches - An online magazine dedicated to fine watches.