The legendary chronograph maker Angelus staged a comeback in 2015 with a collection of highly engineered timepieces. Among the modern creations of the brand were the U21 and U22, flying tourbillon watches with architectural skeletonized movements and the use of modern, technical materials. Presented once again in a CTP carbon & titanium case, their calibre U250 returns in a series of eight unique pieces with PVD-treated bridges, each model showcasing a different colour. Meet the Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail.
The new Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail is a sporty, modern flying tourbillon. This attention-grabbing watch is built around a skeletonized movement, the calibre A-250 that reveals its architecture. A CTP carbon mainplate provides the background for the components that are crafted from technical materials and laid bare. The structure of the movement revolves around the symmetry of the barrel at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A gear train between the two ensures transmission and feels like floating.
The main difference with its predecessors, the U21 and U22, is the use of colourful PVD treatments on the surface of the three titanium bridges of the movement. The carbon fibre plate acts as a dial and almost seems to be part of the case. The hands and hour markers are filled with Super-LumiNova for legibility in all conditions.
The hand-wound movement is regulated by a flying tourbillon, a skewed construction where the tourbillon cage is held on one side only. Beating at 3Hz, the movement has a healthy 90-hour power reserve when fully wound.
The bezel-less case features a domed sapphire crystal that allows you to discover the movement from all angles. Turning the watch over, the exhibition caseback reveals the carbon fibre plate and its jewels set into chatons.
At 42mm in diameter and 10.3mm thick, the case mixes titanium lug modules with a CTP caseback and middle case. CTP (Carbon Thin Ply) carbon draws on the ultralight and ultra-rigid properties of carbon fibres. Sheets of carbon are piled and each layer is orientated differently to create a multi-hatched network that is particularly solid, given the density of the layers. CTP carbon is lightweight, comfortable, soft to the touch, anti-allergenic, fully dermo-compatible and non-magnetic.
The Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail is worn on an alligator strap fitted with an insert for a perfect integration to the case. The pin buckle is in grade 5 titanium.
This ‘Cocktail’ collection comprises eight unique pieces. Each version is named after a cocktail: Aviation, White Russian, Cosmopolitan, Negroni, Ocean View, Blue Lagoon, Berry Berry Blast and Tequila Sunrise. Price is set at CHF 59,000.
More details at www.angelus-watches.com.
This post first appeared on Monochrome Watches - An online magazine dedicated to fine watches.