The Manero Collection has been a MONOCHROME favourite within the Carl F. Bucherer line-up for a long time. For simple reasons: these are the most elegant, refined watches and it comprises the most complex movements (including in-house ones). In addition to the Chronograph Perpetual, The Lucerne-based Manufacture has just added a QP-only watch to its collection, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Perpetual Limited Edition. And we go hands-on with it here.
With its months of different lengths, our calendar sets quite a challenge for watchmakers. All timepieces equipped with a simple calendar share the same limitation: they need to be corrected several times a year – each month with less than 31 days. A true technical feat, perpetual calendars take into account the different lengths of the months on a 4-year cycle. Its intricate mechanism has a mechanical “memory” of over 1461 days. As a consequence, perpetual calendars will not require any adjustment until the year 2100 at the earliest, as leap years are skipped at the turn of a century, except once every 400 years (more information about calendar watches and perpetual calendars here).
The perpetual calendar lends itself perfectly to creating great classics with elaborate mechanics and practical everyday utility, to the point of being an inescapable feature in the repertoire of nearly all renowned watchmakers. Carl F. Bucherer’s take on the complication is indeed classic. The layout is familiar: with the date at 3, moon-phase at 6, day of the week at 9 and, in a single sub-dial at 12, the month and the leap-year indication.
The dark hues of the dial bring a modern twist endowing the watch with a distinctive look. With warm, changing reflections and a lot a visual depth, it is indeed appealing. The 3 subsidiary dials for calendar indications are subtly circled and slightly recessed. The dynamic faceted hour markers are paired with dauphine-style hands. The printed minute rail track faithfully follows the contours of the bezel, and at 6 o’clock the moon phase indication is elegant and sober.
The Calibre CFB 1955.1 is a self-winding movement – for obvious practical reasons, as a perpetual calendar needs to keep running to be relevant. It is based on a substantially modified ETA2892-A2 with a Dubois-Depraz 5100 perpetual calendar module. It operates at 28, 800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 42 hours. Its precision is certified by the COSC – thus being a “chronometer” watch. Visible through the exhibition case-back, the rotor is skeletonized and the bridges are decorated with circular Geneva stripes.
The movement is housed in the well-proportioned Manero case. Featuring soft curves and fluid lines, it is fashioned out of pink gold. 40 mm in diameter, its size will fit most wrists. At 11.5 mm thickness and with its elongated lugs, it is comfortable and easy to wear, making it a true dress watch. The chamfering on the lugs is a nice touch. It is superbly finished with polished and brushed surfaces. Four correctors allow adjusting the calendar and the moon phase indications. The water resistance is 30 meters. The exhibition case back is screwed.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Perpetual is offered on a black alligator strap secured with an 18k gold pin buckle. It is a limited edition of 188 pieces and its price is set at CHF 28,500. For more information, please visit www.carl-f-bucherer.com.
Technical specifications – Carl F. Bucherer Manero Perpetual Limited Edition
- Case: 40mm diameter x 11.5mm height – 18k pink gold, polished and brushed – sapphire crystal on the front and on the back – water resistant to 30 m
- Movement: Calibre CFB 1955.1 – mechanical with automatic winding – 42h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – 36 jewels – hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar and moon phases indications – Chronometer certified.
- Strap: alligator leather on 18k gold pin buckle
- Limited edition: 188 pieces
- Reference: 10902.03.33.0
- Price: CHF 28,500
This post first appeared on Monochrome Watches - An online magazine dedicated to fine watches.